9 Natural Brightening Alternatives to Hydroquinone

Hoping to lighten up scarring, freckles or dark spots on your skin? You may have heard that hydroquinone—a brightening agent—is strong enough to get the job done. And while it’s true that it’s a powerful and effective skin care ingredient, some dermatologists are concerned about its side effects and long-term effects from use.

This has led to a new wave in natural skin brighteners that work to tackle hyperpigmentation. Here’s a look at some natural alternatives and what they can do for your skin.

Why you should consider a natural approach to lightening

Chemical brightening agents like hydroquinone work by blocking key enzymes along the melanin (pigment) producing pathway in the body. But about five years ago, researchers began questioning the safety of hydroquinone because users were at risk for developing ochronosis, a condition that (ironically) darkens the skin.

“Hydroquinone is one of the most researched and studied lightening agents, but can cause severe irritation and hyperpigmentation if not used correctly,” explains Dr. Michele Green, board-certified dermatologist and RealSelf contributor in New York City. Plus, it was banned in the E.U. because it contains carcinogens, which may increase the risk for cancer.

Those side effects are enough to have some doctors concerned, explains Dr. Robin Evans, board-certified dermatologist in Stamford, CT. “Safety concerns have been limiting the use of hydroquinone, pushing the prevalence of hydroquinone-free lightening agents,” she explains. “These products can help with brightening, smoothing the skin and exfoliating. They can also help with pigmentary concerns like melasma.”

Natural alternatives to hydroquinone

If you’re ready to go au natural to brighten up your skin, consider the following ingredients.

1. Eminence Organic Skin Care Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster-Serum 1 fl. oz

Eminence Organic Skin Care Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster-Serum 1 fl. oz

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2. SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense (1 fl. oz.)

SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense (1 fl. oz.)

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3. Sunday Riley TIDAL Brightening Enzyme Water Cream (1.7 oz.)

Sunday Riley TIDAL Brightening Enzyme Water Cream (1.7 oz.)

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4. PCA SKIN Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum (1 fl. oz.)

PCA SKIN Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum (1 fl. oz.)

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Mulberry extract is a natural but powerful brightening agent derived from the mulberry plant, explains Dr. Erum Ilyas, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Amber Noon in Pennsylvania. “Mulberry plants have several compounds that have been extracted from both roots and stems, with known ability to block tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in the production of a skin pigment called melanin,” she explains. Some studies have shown mulberry extract to be as powerful as kojic acid (see above)—another common natural brightener. If your skin doesn’t agree with kojic acid, or is sensitive, Ilyas says that mulberry extract is generally well tolerated and won’t likely cause irritation. Find it in: PCA Skin Vitamin b3 Brightening Serum   

6. Obagi Medical Professional-C Serum 20% (1 oz.)

Obagi Medical Professional-C Serum 20% (1 oz.)

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7. iS Clinical Brightening Complex (1 oz.)

iS Clinical Brightening Complex (1 oz.)

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9. Jan Marini Skin Zyme (2 oz.)

Jan Marini Skin Zyme (2 oz.)

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Your favorite tropical fruit may help brighten your skin, too. “Papaya contains alpha hydroxy acids, which are effective in cell turnover and exfoliation,” Green says. “And papain (an enzyme found in papaya) exfoliates the skin, giving you a lighter, brighter complexion.” You can find papaya and papain in many products these days, including cleansers, peels, masks and exfoliating scrubs. It is generally considered safe (follow product directions for use). But always test it on your skin first to confirm you aren’t allergic and won’t have a bad reaction. Find it in: Jan Marini Skin Zyme Bottom line Evans says natural brighteners may not be as effective as hydroquinone when it comes to lightening, but are worth a try if you are worried about its side effects. “Ingredients that encourage cell turnover and peeling, inhibit melanin production or protect from the sun will all be helpful in lightening the skin to some degree,” she says. “Most important, they can help prevent further darkening of the skin.” Just keep in mind that the above ingredients can come with side effects of their own—irritation, inflammation and peeling. Work with your dermatologist to determine which products are safe for your skin.