What is Azelaic Acid? All You Need to Know About This Brightening and Acne-Fighting Powerhouse
When it comes to exfoliation, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid have long been considered the undisputed holy grails. However, there’s a new player on the block that’s been gaining plenty of well-deserved buzz: azelaic acid. Neither an AHA nor BHA, azelaic acid may very well be the multitasking game-changer your skin needs—especially if you’re dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, and texture irregularities. But what is azelaic acid exactly? Keep reading to find out why it might be the secret weapon your routine is missing.
Meet the Expert
Dr. Ashley Magovern - Board-certified dermatologist and medical director of Dermstore’s Medical Advisory Board.
In this Article
- What is Azelaic Acid?
- What is Azelaic Acid Used For?
- Which Skin Types Should Use Azelaic Acid?
- Azelaic Acid Benefits
- How to Use Azelaic Acid
- What Should You Not Mix with Azelaic Acid?
- Does Azelaic Acid Help with Acne?
- Can Azelaic Acid Fade Dark Spots?
- Potential Azelaic Acid Side Effects
- Best Azelaic Acid Products
- FAQs
- The Bottom Line
What is Azelaic Acid?
Falling under the category of dicarboxylic acids, azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in grains like rye, barley, and wheat as well as produced by yeast thriving on one’s skin, says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ashley Magovern, medical director of Dermstore’s Medical Advisory Board. “It is well-known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and skin-brightening properties, making it a powerful multitasking ingredient,” she adds.
In skincare products, its lab-produced form is often used to treat various skin concerns. “For years, azelaic acid was a well-kept secret among dermatologists. We’ve been using it as a prescription treatment in higher concentrations forever in our field, and now it’s widely available in over-the-counter products,” shares Dr. Magovern. How azelaic acid works is by targeting the production of keratin—preventing excessive buildup that can lead to clogged pores, bumps, and conditions like keratosis pilaris—and inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin.
What is Azelaic Acid Used For?
As far as multitasking ingredients are concerned, azelaic acid is one that goes above and beyond. That’s why it’s no surprise that it’s trusted and recommended by dermatologists and skincare experts to address some of the most stubborn conditions.
“Azelaic acid is used to treat a variety of skin concerns, including acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It helps to unclog pores, reduce redness, and fade dark spots caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma,” Dr. Magovern explains.
Which Skin Types Should Use Azelaic Acid?
The beauty of azelaic acid is that despite being a hardworking exfoliant, it’s known to be gentler than other exfoliating acids, making it well-tolerated by most skin types. Its acne-fighting properties help control breakouts without having to worry about drying out or irritating the skin, so it’s particularly beneficial for sensitive, acne-prone, and hyperpigmented skin, says Dr. Magovern. “It is gentle enough for rosacea-prone skin and provides a great alternative for those who cannot tolerate stronger exfoliants like retinoids or AHAs,” she adds.
Azelaic Acid Benefits
The versatility of azelaic acid is widely known among skincare pros and insiders, but if it’s your first time hearing about this skincare hero, here are its top benefits:
Fights and Prevents Acne – Azelaic acid is known to eliminate acne-causing bacteria, reduce redness and inflammation, and prevents clogged pores. Fades Hyperpigmentation – It brightens discoloration concerns like melasma, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation. Soothes Inflammation – Azelaic acid comforts skin and relieves redness associated with rosacea and skin sensitivity. Gentle and Non-Irritating – Because of how gentle it is compared to other exfoliants, azelaic acid is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used while pregnant or nursing.
How to Use Azelaic Acid
Because of its gentle nature, azelaic acid can be used by most skin types morning and night. “It pairs well with most ingredients but should be introduced gradually if you have sensitive skin,” says Dr. Magovern.
To apply, take a pea-sized amount of the product and smooth over clean, dry skin. When layering with heavy-hitting actives, apply azelaic acid after stronger ingredients to ensure better absorption and synergy. It also goes without saying that topping off with SPF is crucial when using azelaic acid, especially during the day, as it can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays.
What Should You Not Mix with Azelaic Acid?
While azelaic acid is known for being safe, gentle, and a great team-player, it can still be irritating when paired with high concentrations of extra potent ingredients, especially when using the wrong dosage or applying too much too often. To be on the safe side of things, it’s best to avoid mixing azelaic acid with the following ingredients:
Benzoyl Peroxide – Although both are recommended to treat and prevent acne, using azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide together can trigger excessive dryness and irritation. Strong Exfoliants – While AHAs and BHAs can be used safely with azelaic acid, it can also lead to over-exfoliation and strip your skin of moisture, especially if you’re using the formulas more often than directed. Harsh Actives – Using azelaic acid with highly potent ingredients like prescription-strength retinoids may overwhelm the skin and lead to dryness and irritation.
As a general rule, Dr. Magovern says, “If incorporating multiple actives, space them out between morning and evening routines.”
Does Azelaic Acid Help with Acne?
Absolutely! Best for mild to moderate acne, azelaic acid targets acne-causing bacteria, unclogs pores and prevents buildup, and calms inflammation. The best part? It’s a lot gentler and less drying than treatments like benzoyl peroxide, says Dr. Magovern, making it well-suited for sensitive skin types.
Can Azelaic Acid Fade Dark Spots?
According to Dr. Magovern, azelaic acid controls the production of melanin-producing enzyme tyrosinase, “making it effective for fading dark spots from acne scars, melasma, and sun damage.”
Potential Azelaic Acid Side Effects
Just like any other skincare ingredient, azelaic acid is not completely without any potential side effects. “Mild irritation, redness, or dryness can occur, especially during the first few weeks of use,” explains Dr. Magovern. That said, these side effects are temporary and typically experienced when the skin is still adapting. It can also increase sun sensitivity, which is why sun protection is a must. But if these symptoms don’t subside, Dr. Magovern recommends taking your use down a notch. “If irritation persists, reduce usage to every other day or apply over a moisturizer,” she suggests.
Best Azelaic Acid Products
Paula’s Choice 10 Azelaic Acid Booster
194 reviews
$39.00
Powered by a skin-renewing dream team of salicylic acid and azelaic acid, Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster is a multitasking powerhouse that tackles redness, post-breakout marks, and dark spots, leaving your skin visibly clearer and smoother.
Key Ingredients: Azelaic Acid 10%, Salicylic Acid 0.5%, Licorice Root Extract
Skin Type: All skin types, including sensitive skin
Skin Benefits: Evens skin tone, fades dark spots and blemishes, smooths texture, soothes redness and sensitivity
Beauty Insider Tip: This azelaic acid cream can be used alone or mixed with your favorite booster, serum, or nighttime moisturizer. Apply once or twice daily after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating.
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment Lightweight Moisturizer
90 reviews
$110.00
Lightweight, oil-free, and with a gel-creme texture, this treatment is ideal for skin that’s dealing with dullness, redness, and excess oil production, leaving your skin visibly smoother, brighter, and less prone to acne.
Key Ingredients: 2% Alpha Arbutin, 3% Azelaic Acid, 5.75% Phyto Botanical Blend
Skin Type: Oily, Blemish-Prone, and Sensitive Skin
Skin Benefits: Reduces post-blemish marks, smooths rough and uneven texture, controls excess oil, clears and unclogs pores
Beauty Insider Tip: Twice daily, apply one to pumps of the product for improved brightness, texture, and clarity.
PCA SKIN Pigment Gel HQ Free
49 reviews
$95.00
Perfect for skin coping with stubborn dark spots, this hydroquinone-free azelaic acid gel treatment minimizes discoloration and hyperpigmentation and prevent new dark spots from forming, leaving you with a more even and radiant complexion.
Key Ingredients: Lactic Acid, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid
Skin Type: Sensitive Skin
Skin Benefits: Diminishes hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone, prevents acne, controls melanin production, refines and smooths texture
Beauty Insider Tip: Use your fingertips to apply a small amount of the product over the affected area and allow it to penetrate.
Epionce Intensive Nourishing Cream
93 reviews
$120.00
Restore your skin’s radiance and youthful glow with this nourishing cream that heals and restores damaged skin while turning back the clock and reversing signs of aging. The result? Firmer, more even-toned, and younger-looking complexion.
Key Ingredients: Azelaic Acid, Fruit Extracts, Peptides
Skin Type: Dry, Normal
Skin Benefits: Stimulates skin regeneration; minimizes fine lines and wrinkles; improves tone, firmness, elasticity, and texture
Beauty Insider Tip: Apply one to three times daily to reap maximum results.
Glytone Enhance Brightening Complex
49 reviews
$82.00
Meet your new go-to for a brighter, more radiant complexion. Lightweight and fast-absorbing, this azelaic acid cream fades dark spots and smooths the skin’s surface without the sting or irritation.
Key Ingredients: Azelaic Acid, Glycolic Acid
Skin Type: Acne-Prone, Combination, Dry, Mature, Normal, Oily
Skin Benefits: Sheds dead and dry skin cells, diminishes hyperpigmentation and dark spots, restores and rejuvenates skin
Beauty Insider Tip: Each bottle of this face cream provides up to 45 applications when used as directed, making sure you get the most bang for your buck.
Jan Marini Bioglycolic Bioclear Lotion
126 reviews
$98.00
A multitasking powerhouse that tackles breakouts, signs of aging, and uneven skin tone all at once, this exfoliating lotion gently buffs, smooths, and clarifies for a clearer, more refined complexion. With its lightweight and fast-absorbing formula, it’s sure to fit seamlessly into any skincare routine.
Key Ingredients: Azelaic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid
Skin Type: All skin types, including sensitive skin
Skin Benefits: Prevents breakouts and adult acne, targets signs of aging, gently exfoliates
Beauty Insider Tip: Start with a once-daily application and slowly increase to morning and night as needed.
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta 2% BHA+ Breakout Solution
$38.00
If you’re looking for a skin-clarifying treatment that won’t irritate or dry out your skin, then this derm-formulated all-over solution is for you. Infused with botanicals and a blend of five active acids, including azelaic acid, it treats acne, clears congestion, and eliminates bacteria while calming and balancing the skin.
Key Ingredients: Salicylic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Lactic Acid, Pyruvic Acid, Phytic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Turmeric, Farnesol
Skin Type: Oily, Combination, Acne-Prone Skin
Skin Benefits: Clears and decongests pores, balances oil, kills acne-causing bacteria, calms inflammation and redness
Beauty Insider Tip: This clinically proven solution targets six types of acne, including stubborn adult acne.
Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
1 reviews
$99.00
If your skin is overrun by clogged pores, acne, and extra oil, then this azelaic acid serum is for you. It arms your complexion against the six most stubborn skin concerns–breakouts, redness, blackheads, enlarged pores, post-acne marks, and excess oil–while imparting a healthier glow and smoother complexion.
Key Ingredients: 10% Azelaic Acid, 1% Kojic Acid, 3% Hexylresorcinol Complex, Ribose, Licorice, Bakuchiol Complex
Skin Type: All skin types
Skin Benefits: Decongests pores, clears blackheads and whiteheads, targets acne and acne-related blemishes, balances oil production
Beauty Insider Tip: Apply one to three pumps to the face and neck morning and night, and don’t forget to use SPF during the day.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Clear Daily Invisible Sunscreen SPF 50
$39.99
With its high SPF and broad-spectrum protection, this sunscreen ensures your skin is completely protected against harmful UV rays and safe from any sun sensitivity that comes with using potent ingredients. The best part? Its non-comedogenic, lightweight, and hydrating formula won’t clog your pores nor weigh down your skin, making it ideal for acne- and rosacea-prone skin.
Key Ingredients: Azelaic Acid, Cell-Ox Shield® Technology
Skin Type: All skin types
Skin Benefits: Broad spectrum, provides immediate and all-day hydration, free from oxybenzone and octinoxate, non-comedogenic
Beauty Insider Tip: This sunscreen boasts of a barely-there texture and dewy finish.
Irene Forte Skincare Lavender Tetra-Acid Mask
$165.00
Breathe new life to dull and tired skin with this skin-renewing mask that expertly blends three AHAs with azelaic acid. It gently exfoliates, clarifies, and balances the skin, resulting in a brighter, more even skin tone.
Key Ingredients: Italian Triple-AHA Complex, Azelaic Acid Derivative, Lavender Water, Rosemary Water, Vitamin E, Jojoba Oil
Skin Type: All skin types
Skin Benefits: Brightens skin, hydrates, clears and purifies complexion, calms
Beauty Insider Tip: After massaging a generous amount to the face, neck, and decollete, leave the product on for 10 minutes before rinsing off with warm water or toner.
Glo Skin Beauty Hydra-Bright Alpha Arbutin Drops
11 reviews
$68.00
With topnotch botanical brighteners at the helm, this brightening serum works hard to lend your complexion that coveted lit-from-within glow. By keeping hyperpigmentation under control and reducing the appearance of acne scars and sun damage, it leaves your skin noticeably smoother and more radiant.
Key Ingredients: Alpha Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Essential Oils
Skin Type: All skin types
Skin Benefits: Fades discoloration and hyperpigmentation, minimizes blemishes caused by acne and sun damage, brightens and evens complexion
Beauty Insider Tip: This derm-recommended serum comes in a smart dropper format that lets you adjust drops to meet your skin’s needs. Apply two to three drops for a brightening boost or four to six drops to reap maximum serum benefits.
FAQs
1. Can You Use Azelaic Acid with Retinol?
With proper timing and application, azelaic acid and retinol can be used together to boost the brightening, smoothing, and exfoliating effects that both ingredients impart to the skin. However, it’s important to ease your skin into the combo. That means starting slow and using them on alternate nights or using azelaic acid in the morning and retinol at night.
2. Which is Better, Vitamin C or Azelaic Acid?
When it comes to choosing between vitamin C and azelaic acid, the best ingredient for your skin largely depends on your goals. If you’re looking to prevent and reverse free radical damage and brighten your complexion, then vitamin C fits the bill. If you have sensitive skin that makes it difficult to use strong treatments to deal with breakouts, azelaic acid is your best. Additionally, you can reserve a spot for both ingredients in your routine as long as you use vitamin C in the morning and save azelaic acid for nighttime use to minimize potential irritation.
3. Is It Okay to Use Azelaic Acid Every Day?
Yes, it is! Most skin types can tolerate using azelaic acid every day, but if you want to play it safe, then start slowly (every other day application) and gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
4. Is Azelaic Acid an AHA or BHA?
Neither! Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. While it boasts of exfoliating, brightening, and anti-acne properties like AHAs and BHAs, azelaic acid is much gentler and friendlier to sensitive skin.
5. How Long Does It Take for Azelaic Acid to Work?
Azelaic acid can deliver noticeable improvements in as little as two weeks, but it typically takes six to eight weeks to reap maximum results, especially when dealing with stubborn pigmentation and post-acne scars.
The Bottom Line
While exfoliation is a crucial part of a well-rounded skincare routine, it’s no secret that not all skin types can handle strong exfoliating acids. That’s where azelaic acid comes in. So, what is azelaic acid? A gentle exfoliant, azelaic acid is an acne fighter, complexion brightener, and inflammation soother all rolled into one. It clears and prevents pore-clogging buildup, eliminates acne-causing bacteria, and relieves redness and inflammation. It also acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, slowing down the production of melanin and improving the look of dark spots, post-acne marks, and hyperpigmentation. The best part? This high-flying ingredient is easily tolerated even by the most sensitive skin, making it a fantastic addition to almost any routine—whether you’re on a mission to clear breakouts, smooth and even out your complexion, or just want to give your skin that healthy, youthful glow!
Janeca Racho is a Journalism graduate with over 15 years of writing experience. After getting her start in public relations and advertising, she made the switch to freelance writing and began working for various lifestyle, fashion, and travel brands. Her love for all things skincare has led her to beauty reporting and research for the last ten years. Writing for several hair and beauty blogs, she reports on anti-aging staples, trending brands and products, must-have ingredients, and health and wellness.
