Antioxidants in Skin Care: How Do They Work and Which Ones Are the Best?
Whether your goal is to protect or perfect your skin, e-v-e-r-y-o-n-e is looking for ingredients that actually work. Enter, antioxidants, man-made or naturally-occurring compounds that share a special superpower: Simply put, they tap the brakes on unavoidable chemical reactions that damage skin cells—ever the more reason to put antioxidants on a pedestal or better yet, slather them allll over you.
What Are Antioxidants?
Found in fresh fruits and veggies, which are known for being particularly potent sources, antioxidants such as vitamin C can also be applied topically.
How Do Antioxidants Work and Why Do We Need Them?
Antioxidants work by reversing or preventing free radicals from causing oxidative stress, according to Dr. Magovern.
If you missed the chemistry lesson that covered all of the above, here’s your 101: Free radicals are unstable molecules with one or more rogue electrons (that is, subatomic particles). This structure makes those molecules highly reactive and prone to oxidation, which you’ve witnessed if you’ve ever seen a sliced apple turn brown. To gain stability, they react with other molecules, triggering a chain reaction that damages the structure and genetic material (DNA) of otherwise healthy cells.
Unfortunately, free radical damage leads to inflammation that gets in the way of the skin’s regularly-scheduled self-repair systems. Eventually, this can lead to hyperpigmentation, acne, and cell damage that result in wrinkles down the road, Dr. Magovern explains. Because our bodies naturally produce free radicals, and sunlight, pollution, environmental toxins, tobacco, and stress also contribute to free radicals, there’s no way to completely escape them and resulting oxidative damage—womp, womp. However, topical antioxidants can help.
What Antioxidants Do For Your Skin
Most of us know that cells are the building blocks of our skin. With that in mind, “antioxidants work by scavenging atoms’ loose electrons so that they cannot cause cell damage,” explains Dr. Magovern.
Luckily, you don’t need a PhD in dermatology (or bio chem, phewf!) to wrap your head around the bottom line: Antioxidants are damage defenders that help slow skin aging and they deserve a place in your routine—science says! Behold, an abbreviated list of their benefits:
Antioxidants help correct signs of aging. Oxidative stress breaks down collagen, hinders skin’s natural repair process and triggers inflammation—and you see these effects as fine lines, wrinkles, loose skin, acne breakouts and a blotchy skin tone. By scavenging free radicals, antioxidants can help prevent and correct these visible signs and give skin a more youthful glow. Antioxidants help prevent sun damage. “By definition, all antioxidants have anti-inflammatory properties,” explains Dr. Magovern. “They blunt your skin’s inflammatory response to the sun’s harmful rays, preventing sunburn and providing enhanced protection against sun damage and photoaging.” Antioxidants help skin repair itself. Inflammation impedes the skin’s renewal process. By reducing inflammation, antioxidants allow skin to repair itself and correct visible damage. “Some antioxidants, like vitamin C, can also stimulate collagen production, which is vital for youthful skin,” adds Dr. Magovern. Antioxidants help brighten skin tone. Free radicals and frequent sun exposure can also trigger changes in our skin’s melanin production, causing dark spots and uneven skin tone. By reducing photodamage, antioxidants can help prevent abnormal skin pigmentation. Some antioxidants (like vitamin C) also work to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme that stimulates melanin production.
The 7 Best Antioxidants For Your Skin
There are many different types of antioxidants found in skincare products, some more potent than others. Here are the most popular antioxidants you’ll find in the beauty aisle.
Vitamin CA favorite among dermatologists, vitamin C is one of the most studied antioxidants out there. As a free radical scavenger, vitamin C has many skin benefits, like boosting collagen production (which leaves skin firmer) and fading dark spots. Once you find it on an ingredient label—it may be listed as L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C ester, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or lipophilic vitamin C—use it in the morning to make the most of its ability to prevent sun damage and inhibit hyperpigmentation—and always follow it with sunscreen. Niacinamide“Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a powerful antioxidant that improves the skin’s texture and tone. It reduces fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation and exhibits anti-inflammatory properties,” explains Dr. Rhonda Klein, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut. Thanks to its ability to calm inflammation, niacinamide can also soothe breakouts, improve skin’s barrier function and help fight redness. This vitamin is often used to treat skin conditions like rosacea and acne and is not known to cause any adverse reactions, making it ideal for sensitive types. ResveratrolResveratrol is known as the “longevity molecule” thanks to its impressive anti-aging abilities. An antioxidant found mostly in the skins of fruits like grapes and berries, resveratrol serves as the plants’ defensive armor—and has a similarly reparative effect when used in skin care products. “Resveratrol has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal properties, which calm down the skin, reduce skin aging and may keep [the skin] free of infections,” says Dr. Viseslav Tonkovic-Capin, a board-certified dermatologist in Missouri. It’s best used in the evening, since UV exposure can hamper its effectiveness. Vitamin EVitamin E is an important antioxidant required for the proper function of many organs in the body, including the skin. It’s widely recognized for its ability to accelerate the skin’s healing process. No wonder vitamin E is often found in moisturizers, creams and lotions formulated to treat dry skin, as well as products designed to reduce stretch marks. Vitamin E also helps to stabilize other antioxidants and improve their effectiveness, so you’ll often find it paired with vitamin C or resveratrol. Retinol (Vitamin A)If there’s one ingredient that’s been proven time and time again to help turn back the clock on aging skin, it’s retinol. A derivative of vitamin A, this antioxidant is particularly effective due to its small molecular structure, which allows it to penetrate deep enough into the skin that it can effectively stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell renewal and repair. Both over-the-counter retinol and prescription forms of vitamin A (retinoids like tretinoin) are adept at smoothing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin tone and discoloration. Coenzyme Q10Ever wondered how you used to pull an all-nighter with no hint of fatigue on your skin the next day? Well, thanks to the abundant supply of coenzyme Q10 or coQ10 in your body, those late nights didn’t take a toll on your skin—back then. But as we age, the presence of coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone, in our body slowly diminishes, making us more susceptible to wrinkles and photo-aging. Research shows that an increased topical application of this antioxidant helps fight off free radical damage and keeps your skin cells healthy. This nutrient is easily absorbed by the skin and helps stimulate collagen production, which helps improve elasticity and texture. PolyphenolsThere are thousands of types of polyphenols (resveratrol is one) which are found in fruits, vegetables, green or black tea (also called flavonoids) and other botanicals. These compounds “possess anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory and antioxidant properties to prevent UV-induced skin photodamage,” Dr. Klein explains. Studies show that consumption and topical use of ingredients rich in polyphenols help improve our skin’s natural defense against oxidative stress, prevent signs of aging and repair DNA damage.
One note about the list above—that’s not the half of ‘em: More research is being done every day on antioxidants that may be even more potent than skincare darling vitamin C—think idebenone and coffeeberry, among others, according to Dr. Magovern.
Combining Ingredients When Using Antioxidants
Considering the abundance of antioxidant-containing skincare products on the market, the good news is that you don’t have to pick just one: “The more the merrier, as long as there is no skin irritation,” says Dr. Magovern. In certain cases, all-powerful antioxidants can be even more beneficial when combined: Take vitamin C and E, for example. “We know they work better together,” says Dr. Magovern. Ferulic acid and phloretin, which are other antioxidants, may actually stabilize vitamin C and allow it to work more effectively, she adds.
That said, other antioxidants can lead to irritation when combined. Truth be told, it’s a minefield out there—one reason why it’s always best to consult your dermatologist before embarking on a new skincare journey. At the very least, refer to Dermstore’s The Ultimate Guide to Skincare Ingredient Pairings for guidance on how to sidestep adverse reactions.
Antioxidant-Rich Products Dermatologists Can’t Get Enough Of
In terms of when to begin with incorporating antioxidants into your regimen? The consensus is in: “I don’t think it’s ever too early,” Dr. Magovern says. “While many young adults may not need retinol-containing products yet, an antioxidant product is the perfect way to start taking care of your skin.” Here are some of our top-rated, antioxidant-rich skincare products. Apply away, and get ready for results.
1. Obagi Medical Professional-C Serum 20% (1 oz.)
1005 reviews
$142.00
2. PCA SKIN Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum (1 fl. oz.)
46 reviews
$125.00
3. SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E (1 fl. oz.)
405 reviews
$168.00
4. Eminence Organic Skin Care Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil 1 fl. oz
90 reviews
$118.00
5. Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum 30ml
139 reviews
$85.00
6. Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner 125ml
228 reviews
$38.00
7. Naturopathica White Tea Antioxidant Mask (1.7 fl. oz.)
16 reviews
$64.00
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